Bonsai listen (help·info) (Japanese: 盆栽, literally "potted plant") is the art of aesthetic miniaturization of trees by growing them in containers. Originating in Chinese pen-zai (Chinese: 盆栽, "potted plant") and pen-jing (Chinese: 盆景, "tray scenery"), Japanese bonsai developed its localization of techniques and aesthetics after its introduction to Japan by imperial embassiesKorean it is called bunjae (분재). returning from China in the ninth century. In Western culture, the word "bonsai" is commonly used as an umbrella term for all miniature trees. In
| Contents1 History - 2 Cultivation
- 3 Common styles
- 4 Size classifications
- 5 Techniques
- 5.1 Watering
- 5.2 Repotting
- 5.3 Wiring
- 5.4 Tools
- 5.5 Fertilization and soil
- 5.6 Containers
- 5.7 Location
- 5.8 Overwintering
- 6 Mallsai
- 7 Collecting
- 8 Bonsai tourism
- 9 References
- 10 External links
- 11 See also
|
History
At first, the Japanese used miniaturized container-grown trees for decorating their homes and gardens. [1]
During the Tokugawa period, landscape gardening attained new importance. Cultivation of plants such as azalea and maples became a pastime of the wealthy. Growing dwarf plants in containers was also popular, but by modern bonsai standards the container plants of this period were inappropriately large.[2] The then-term for dwarf potted trees was "a tree in a pot" (鉢の木, hachi-no-ki?).
Cultivation
Bonsai are not genetically dwarfed plants. They are created from nearly any tree or shrub species and remain small through pot confinement and crown and root pruning. Some specific species are more sought after for use as bonsai material. This is because they have characteristics that make them appropriate for the smaller design arrangements of bonsai. [citation needed] There are many different ways to acquire, cultivate and grow bonsai. Several of the most common include:
- Growing from seed
- Cuttings
- Air layering
- Grafting
Common styles
Bonsai Garden at the pagoda Yunyan Ta (Cloud Rock Pagoda; Suzhou, China) 
Bonsai Trees showing a variety of different styles in Sydney, Australia. 
A Pine bonsai in the informal upright style. This tree is more than 30 years old, in the Hidden Lake Gardens Collection
Many different styles of bonsai exist. In English, the most common styles include: formal upright, slant, informal upright, cascade, semi-cascade, raft, literati, and group/forest.
- The formal upright style, or Chokkan, is characterized by a straight, upright, tapering trunk. The trunk and branches of the informal upright style, or Moyogi, may incorporate pronounced bends and curves, but the apex of the informal upright is always located directly over where the trunk begins at the soil line.
- Slant-style, or Shakan, bonsai possess straight trunks like those of bonsai grown in the formal upright style. However, the slant style trunk emerges from the soil at an angle, and the apex of the bonsai will be located to the left or right of the root base.
- Cascade-style, or Kengai, bonsai are modeled after trees which grow over water or on the sides of mountains. The apex, or tip of the tree in the Semi-cascade-style, or Han Kengai, bonsai extend just at or beneath the lip of the bonsai pot; the apex of a (full) cascade style falls below the base of the pot.
- Raft-style, or Netsunari, bonsai mimic a natural phenomenon that occurs when a tree topples onto its side (typically due to erosion or another natural force) and branches along the exposed side of the trunk, growing as if they are a group of new trunks. Sometimes, roots will develop from buried portions of the trunk. Raft-style bonsai can have sinuous, straight-line, or slanting trunks, all giving the illusion that they are a group of separate trees -- while actually being the branches of a tree planted on its side.
- The literati style is characterized by a generally bare trunk line, with branches reduced to a minimum, and typically placed higher up on a long, often contorted trunk. This style derives its name from the Chinese literati, who were often artists, and some of whom painted Chinese brush paintings, like those found in the ancient text, The Mustard Seed Garden Manual of Painting, depicting pine trees that grew in harsh climates, struggling to reach sunlight. In Japan, the literati style is known as bunjin-gi (文人木, bunjin-gi?). (Bunjin is a translation of the Chinese phrase wenren meaning "scholars practiced in the arts" and gi is a derivative of the Japanese word, ki, for "tree").
- The group or forest style, or Yose Ue, comprises a planting of more than one tree (typically an odd number if there are three or more trees, and essentially never 4 because of its significance in Japan) in a bonsai pot. The trees are usually the same species, with a variety of heights employed to add visual interest and to reflect the age differences encountered in mature forests.
- The root-over-rock style, or Sekijoju, is a style in which the roots of a tree (typically a fig tree) are wrapped around a rock. The rock is at the base of the trunk, with the roots exposed to varying degrees.
- The broom style, or Hokidachi is employed for trees with extensive, fine branching, often with species like elms. The trunk is straight and upright. It branches out in all directions about 1/3 of the way up the entire height of the tree. The branches and leaves form a ball-shaped crown which can also be very beautiful during the winter months.
- The multi-trunk style, or Ikadabuki has all the trunks growing out of one root system, and it actually is one single tree. All the trunks form one crown of leaves, in which the thickest and most developed trunk forms the top.
- The growing-in-a-rock, or Ishizuke style means the roots of the tree are growing in the cracks and holes of the rock. There is not much room for the roots to develop and take up nutrients. These trees are designed to visually represent that the tree has to struggle to survive.
Size classifications
Additionally, bonsai are classed by size. Sizes of bonsai include:
| Class | Size |
| cm | in |
| tiny | Mame | Keshi-tsubu | up to 2.5 | up to 1 |
| Shito | 2.5 – 7.5 | 1–3 |
| small | Shohin | Gafu | 13 – 20 | 5–8 |
| Komono | up to 18 | up to 7.2 |
| Myabi | 15–25 | 6–10 |
| medium | Kifu | Katade-mochi | up to 40 | 16 |
| medium to large | Chu/Chuhin | 40–60 | 16–24 |
| large | Dai/Daiza | Omono | up to 120 | up to 48 |
| Bonju | over 100 | over 40 |
*Note: Not all sources agree on exact range of size ranges.
There are a number of specific techniques and styles associated with mame and shito sizes, the smallest bonsai. These are often small enough to be grown in thimble-sized pots,[citation needed] and due to their minuscule size, require special care and adhere to different design conventions.
Techniques
Bonsai at the "Foire du Valais" (Martigny, Switzerland, oct 2005) Shaping and dwarfing are accomplished through a few basic but precise techniques. The small size of the tree and the dwarfing of foliage are maintained through a consistent regimen of pruning of both the leaves and the roots. Various methods must be employed, as each species of tree exhibits different budding behavior. Additionally, some pruning must be done seasonally, as most trees require a dormancy period and do not grow roots or leaves at that time; improper pruning can weaken or kill the tree.[3]
Most species suitable for bonsai can be shaped by wiring. Copper or aluminum wire is wrapped around branches and trunks, holding the branch in place until it eventually lignifies (converts into wood) and maintains the desired shape (at which point the wire should be removed). Some species do not lignify strongly, or are already too stiff/brittle to be shaped and are not conducive to wiring, in which case shaping must be accomplished primarily through pruning.[3]
To simulate age and maturity in a bonsai, deadwood features called "jin" and "shari" can be used to good effect with coniferous bonsai, especially. "Jin" are created by removing the bark from an entire branch to create a snag of deadwood, while "shari" involves stripping bark from areas of the trunk, simulating natural scarring by limbs being torn free. Care must be taken when employing these techniques, because these areas are prone to infection, and removal of too much bark will result in losing all growth above that area. Bark must never be removed in a complete ring around the trunk as it contains the phloem and will cut off all nutrient flow above that ring.
Watering
Because of limited space in the confines of a bonsai pot, bonsai care can be quite difficult. The shallow containers limit the expanse of the root system and makes proper watering somewhat difficult. Watering techniques vary, with some growers preferring to water with a fine hose on a watering can or hose, while others immerse their trees in a water-filled basin to the height of the container lip. [citation needed] While some species can handle periods of relative dryness, others require near-constant moisture. Watering too frequently, or allowing the soil to remain soggy, can promote fungal infections and "root rot". Sun, heat and wind exposure can quickly dry a bonsai tree to the point of drought, so the soil moisture should be monitored daily and water given copiously when needed. The soil should not be allowed to become dry, even for brief periods. The foliage of some plants cultivated for bonsai, including the common juniper, do not display signs of drying and damage until long after the damage is done, and may even appear green and healthy despite having an entirely dead root system.[citation needed]
Repotting
An uprooted bonsai, ready for repotting Bonsai are generally repotted and root-pruned every two years around springtime, just before they break dormancy. Bonsai are often repotted while in development, and less often as they become more mature. This prevents them from becoming pot-bound and encourages the growth of new feeder roots, allowing the tree to absorb moisture more efficiently.
Pre-bonsai material are often placed in "growing boxes" which are made from scraps of fenceboard or wood slats. These large boxes allow the roots to grow more freely and increase the vigor of the tree. The second stage after using a grow box is to plant the tree in a "training box;" this is often smaller and helps to create a smaller dense root mass which can be more easily moved into a final presentation pot.
Wiring
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Bonsai wiring is one of the most powerful tools to control the shape of the tree.[4] The best time to wire a tree is in spring or fall when there is not as much foliage and the tree will not be too stiff. (Trees become stiff in winter while dormant because the sap pressure of the trunk and branches is much lower.)
One method of wiring the tree is to wrap the trunk. Then each branch is wrapped in spirals of bonsai wire so that the branch may be bent. The tree will then train the branch to grow in the desired direction. Another method of wiring involves attaching weights to the branches, causing them to sag and creating the impression of age.
Generally, wire is left on for one growing season. The tree should not be allowed to outgrow the wire, since this could cause the bark to become bound to the wire, making removal traumatic. When the time comes to remove the wire, it should be cut away in small pieces (rather than unwinding it), as this will cause less damage to the foliage.
The thickness of the wire used should be in proportion to the size of the branch — larger branches will require lower-gauge wire. Two pieces of thinner wire paired together can be used in lieu of heavier wire. It is bad form to let any wires cross; this is most readily accomplished by starting from the base of trunk and working up.
When bending the branches, one should listen and feel for any sign of splitting. When bending a branch near the trunk extra caution should be used, as the branch is generally most brittle near the trunk. It is possible to gradually bend a branch little by little over the course of several months.
When working with the branches, consideration should be given to the style desired.
Tools
A set of bonsai tools, from left to right: leaf trimmer; rake with spatula; root hook; coir brush; concave cutter; knob cutter; wire cutter; small, medium, and large shears
Special tools are available for the maintenance of bonsai. The most common tool is the concave cutter, a tool designed to prune flush, without leaving a stub. Other tools include branch bending jacks, wire pliers and shears of different proportions for performing detail and rough shaping. Anodized aluminum or copper wire is used to shape branches and hold them until they take a set.
Fertilization and soil
Opinions about soil mixes and fertilization vary widely among practitioners. Some promote the use of organic fertilizers to augment an essentially inorganic soil mix, while others will use chemical fertilizers freely. Bonsai soils are constructed to optimize drainage [5]. Bonsai soil is primarily a loose, fast-draining mix of components, often a base mixture of coarse sand or gravel, fired clay pellets or expanded shale combined with an organic component such as peat or bark. In Japan, volcanic soils based on clay (akadama, or "red ball" soil, and kanuma, a type of yellow pumice) are preferred.
[edit] Containers
Every bonsai pot is equipped with drainage holes to enable the excess water to drain out. Each hole is typically covered with a plastic screen or mesh to prevent soil from escaping. Containers come in a variety of shapes and colors (glazed or unglazed). Containers with straight sides and sharp corners are generally better suited to formally presented plants, while oval or round containers might be used for plants with informal shapes. Most evergreen bonsai are placed in unglazed pots, while deciduous trees are planted in glazed pots. It is important in design that the color of the pot compliments the tree. Bonsai pots are produced all over the world, but some are higher quality than others. Some are highly collectible, such as ancient Chinese or Japanese pots made in highly-touted regions with experienced pot makers such as Tokoname, Japan. However, collectible pots are not confined to Asia; European Artists such as Byran Albright and Gordon Duffett produce unique pots which bonsai artists collect.
Location
Contrary to popular belief, bonsai are not suited for indoor culture, and if kept indoors will most likely die.[citation needed] While certain tropical plants may flourish indoors, most bonsai are developed from species of shrubs or trees that are adapted to temperate climates (conifers, maples, etc) and require a period of dormancy. Most trees require several hours of direct or slightly-filtered sun every day.
However, many successful entrepreneurs in indoor bonsai have grown many hardy trees inside. Japanese black pine and Buddhist pine are two examples of common outdoor bonsai that can survive inside, although the Buddhist pine can tolerate more variation in lighting and cold.[citation needed] Those who have successfully grown hardy specimens indoors have resorted to the use of multiple techniques, such as having a cold room designated for bonsai, and even using the refrigerator. With indoor hardy bonsai, having proper lighting and the ability to give a cooling season are both necessary tasks to ensuring survival. An open window will allow the full spectrum of light through, east-facing windows being the best. Apart from that, full spectrum grow lights become necessary, to mimic the sun, and the hardy plants require more of the spectrum.[citation needed]
While some claim there is no true indoor bonsai[citation needed], Buddhist pine and Chinese elms[citation needed] Both these plants have been and continue to be commonly used for outdoor bonsai as well. are common bonsai that will readily adapt to indoor climate, provided they are given acclimatization time.
Overwintering
Some trees require protection from the elements in winter and the techniques used will depend on how well the tree is adapted to the climate. During overwintering, temperate species are allowed to enter dormancy, but care must be taken with deciduous plants to prevent them from breaking dormancy too early. In-ground cold frames, unheated garages, porches, and the like are commonly used, or mulching the plant in its container up to the depth of the first branch or burying them with the root system below the frost line.
Mallsai
The pejorative neologism "Mallsai" is a portmanteau of the words mall and bonsai. It refers to inexpensive bonsai trees often sold in chain stores and gift shops.[citation needed] They are usually weak or dead trees by the time they are sold.[citation needed] Often these bonsai are mass-produced and are rooted in thick clay.[citation needed] This clay is very detrimental to the bonsai, as it literally suffocates the roots and promotes root rot. Very little, if any, shaping is done on "mallsai", and often the foliage is crudely pruned with little finesse to resemble a tree.[citation needed] Due to the conditions under which they are transported and sold, they are often inadequately watered and are kept in poor soil - usually a clump of sphagnum moss or clay with a layer of gravel glued to the top.[citation needed] This leaves them susceptible to both drying and fungal infections. Some "mallsai" can be resuscitated with proper care and immediate repotting, although rarely. This top layer of glued-on gravel should be immediately removed once the bonsai is purchased, and the plant should be repotted in a well-draining bonsai soil. It has recently been made against the law to sell Bonsai in this inported clay "soil" and they should be repotted and their health checked before being resold.
Collecting
Bonsai may be developed from material obtained at the local gardening center, or from suitable materials collected from the wild or urban landscape. Some regions have plant material that is known for its suitability in form - for example the California Juniper and Sierra Juniper found in the American West, and Bald Cypress found in the swamps of Louisiana and Florida.
Great care must be taken when collecting, as it is very easy to damage the tree's root system (often irreparably) by digging it up. Potential material must be analyzed carefully to determine whether it can be removed safely. Trees with a shallow or partially exposed root system are ideal candidates for extraction.
Bonsai tourism
A collection of bonsai at Florida's Melbourne Zoo. 
John Naka's masterpiece, Goshin, is on display at the United States National Arboretum. Bonsai collections are open for public viewing in many cities around the world. For example:
- Australia: Admission is free at the Brisbane Botanic Gardens, where the Bonsai House displays hundreds of trees, some 80 years old. [1].
- Belgium: The Belgian Bonsai Museum hosted by the Bonsai Centre Gingko at Laarne[2]. organizes international competitions and workshops
- Canada: The Montreal Botanical Garden has a very extensive indoor collection of bonsai and penjing that can be viewed year round [3].
- China: View the bonsai at the Botanical Gardens in Beijing [4], Shanghai [5] and Suzhou[6].
- Germany: The Grugapark in Essen has a permanent bonsai exhibition [7].
- Indonesia: Pluit Bonsai Centre in Jakarta is an enormous sales and trading centre for growers and collectors [8].
- Italy: The firm Crespi Bonsai hosts an international competition, the Crespi Cup, every year at the Bonsai Museum in Milan [9].
- Japan: Near Tokyo, the city of Omiya has an artisanal village of bonsai growers and stylists grow and maintain their stock. In Omiya Bonsai Village, more than a half dozen large bonsai nurseries allow visitors to view trees most days during growing season. By one estimate, more than 10,000 trees of world-class quality can be seen in a single day [10].
- Singapore: Thousands on bonsai are on display at the Chinese and Japanese Gardens on two islands in Jurong Lake [11].
- Spain: Visitors to Marbella can enjoy the collection at the Museo de Bonsai [12].
- Taiwan: Bonsai from Taiwan look different from Japanese bonsai as well as the ones we see in Chinese penjing books.[13] [14] [15]
- United Kingdom: The Birmingham Botanical Gardens and Glasshouses hosts a rotating collection of about 25 trees at a time, and occasionally gives bonsai care workshops [16]. Heron's Bonsai Nursery in Surrey amasses 7 acres of a wide range of bonsai trees. Also on show are examples from the owners personal collection alongside Japanese gardens. Regular bonsai classes are available, with a bonsai clinic on the first Sunday of every month [17]. Kew Gardens has small collection of around 60 Trees, and there is also a lovely Japanese Garden.
- United States: The United States National Arboretum in Washington, DC contains the National Bonsai and Penjing Museum, an impressive collection of trees, some of them gifts from the Nation of Japan or foreign heads of state [18]. The Marjorie McNeely Conservatory in St. Paul, Minnesota's Como Park has a Bonsai Room [19] The Arnold Arboretum in Boston, Massachusetts is home to the Larz Anderson Bonsai Collection. On the West Coast the Weyerhaeuser Corporation [20] maintains a collection open to the public at its headquarters near Seattle. In California, the Golden State Bonsai Federation [21] has two collections: the Collection North in Oakland, and the Collection South Huntington Library and Gardens in San Marino. Lastly, the North Carolina Arboretum in Asheville, NC also has an excellent display of Bonsai[22]. The C.V. Starr Bonsai Museum of the Brooklyn Botanic Garden houses a famous collection of indoor and temperate or outdoor bonsai plants and are exhibited in a Japanese-style architectural setting. The Brooklyn Botanic Garden's bonsai collection is considered one of the finest in the world and is the second largest on public display outside Japan, featuring as many as 100 specimens at any given time. Some of the trees in the collection are well over a century old. A stylized verandah complete with tokonoma, or alcove, looks out onto the entire exhibit. Text panels introduce the history of bonsai and explain culture and care.
References
External links
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