Bonsai is the art of aesthetic miniaturization of trees, or of developing woody or semi-woody plants shaped as trees, by growing them in containers. Cultivation includes techniques for shaping, watering, and repotting in various styles of containers.

The Secret Art of Bonsai Revealed

Posted by Hobby Bonsai at 9:19 AM
The History of Bonsai

Although it is possible that the Chinese were the first to start planting small wild trees in pots there is no doubt that it has been the Japanese who have raised the culture of Bonsai trees to the
art it is today.

Interest in Bonsai goes back many centuries in Japan. The first authentic record is in a picture scroll painted early in the fourteenth century by Takakane Takashina. Originally Bonsai (the word simply means a plant in a tray or container) were more or less confined to grotesque and tortured shapes.

After this came the extremely formal pyramidal forms, developing towards the end of the 19th century into softer, more natural forms. Nowadays the majority of trees are trained simply to look like natural trees in miniature. We have come to a time when there is a place for all of Nature’s moods for the Bonsai enthusiast.

About the beginning of the 20th century the interest in Bonsai began to spread to the Western
world, especially to America. The United States now have many Bonsai societies and clubs.
Here in Great Britain we have now caught “bonsai fever” as well. There are many bonsai societies and clubs throughout the country. These all hold regular meetings for discussion and instruction.

Some also publish journals and news letters that are informative and interesting.

A Trident Maple which has been trained in the clump style and is approx.40 years old The Bonsai Kal and the British Bonsai Association exhibit trees at the Royal Horticultural Society’s
halls in Vincent Square, and put on exhibits at the Chelsea Flower Show every year. Bonsai
culture is not regarded as an art form in this country but the Japanese Government recognized it as such in 1935. Perhaps we shall reach those dizzy heights one day!

Appreciation
Admiration, even love, for Bonsai Trees is not something that can be taught in a few sentences. It will emerge and grow stronger only after some understanding has been reached )if the methods for growing and training these miniature works of art.

Art? Yes, for although a Bonsai grower cannot paint a single straight line he chooses a canvas
from amongst the hundreds of different species of trees and plants. His hands and tools become
the brushes and he has the whole expanse of Nature's different moods for a palette.

Furthermore, he helps to create something that is not relatively static. It is very much alive and
can continue living for literally hundreds of years; being admired by each succeeding eneration.
But although appreciation is essentially personal there are a number of points worth Bearing in
mind when considering Bonsai.

A bonsai tree in its container is not a contradiction of nature any more than a well-clipped awn or a cordon-trained fruit tree. It is an attempt, however modest, to emulate nature in miniature. Not only will it suggest its counterpart growing in the wild, it will also intimate the landscape in which it could be growing. For instance, a Needle Juniper can also suggest the rugged mountain where it might live: the cold wind keening through its branches and the sudden dart of a golden-eyed lizard across a rock. A group planting of Zelkovas might hint at undulating countryside, small wild flowers, and the sun shining on a meandering stream.

Although bonsai trees are small they lose nothing in this. Their lack of size enables one to
appreciate every part of them. Seeing a cherry orchard blossoming in the English countryside is a moment to be remembered and treasured. Lovely, but it is impossible fully to appreciate even
one of those magnificent trees. On the other hand, a cherry tree trained as a Bonsai still brings
forth a profusion of blossom and shows, perhaps for the first time, the perfection to be found in a single flower.

A fully wired 40 year old White Pine

Missing the details in nature, as most of us tend to do, is no longer necessary with a small
collection of bonsai trees. Once Nature's small miracles are seen on one's own trees they will
soon be noticed occurring in woodland and countryside throughout the seasons. How often does
one notice the candles on a Pine slowly getting longer as the warm weather approaches, until
finally the new needles make their tentative advance into the world? Or watch as the Maples
gradually assume their autumn colouring?

Each bonsai tree is unique in itself, there is no other tree quite like it. Every moment of its life,
season by season, can be shared; its crises, when under attack by hoards of voracious insects,
and its moments of glory when it radiates health.

In Japan the trees are placed on a low display stand, and although genuine stands are hard to
come by it is still possible to find the odd one tucked in a corner of an antique shop. Simple rafts of bamboo reeds and slices of tree trunk also make good stands. If one prefers something a little more elaborate, making a dark wood stand should not prove an insurmountable problem to the enthusiast. Although they should not be considered essential, they do provide a finishing touch.

A 25 year old Cypress Bonsai growing over a rock

Styles of Bonsai
If one reads a Japanese book on Bonsai it might appear that the different styles are rigidly divided. However, it should be realized that they merely serve as a guide and general classification for shows and judging, etc.

The first classification is that of size, miniature bonsai up to six inches, small bonsai from six inches to one foot, medium bonsai from one foot to two and a half feet, and large bonsai over three feet. It might be of interest to know that in the Imperial Palace in Tokyo they do have bonsai up to six feet. This is because they are displayed in an extremely large hall, and
the average size bonsai, say one foot to eighteen inches, would simply be lost and could not be appreciated.

The second classification of bonsai is the angle at which the trunk stands in the pot. Number one is the formal upright style, number two is from upright to approximately 25 degrees from the vertical; then there is the slanting in number three, and the semi-cascade in number four. The full cascade, number five, is trained so that the upper growth of the tree reaches below the
rim of the pot.

Naturally enough, one can plant more than a single tree in a pot; this is a third classification. It might be noted that the Japanese do not plant an even number of trees in a pot, such a four, six, or eight. Apart from two, they prefer to plant odd numbers, such as three, five, seven and nine. After one has plan ted more than eleven trees in a pot this odd and even difference can be ignored. Although this insistence on planting odd numbers might sound finicky, trying to plant four trees in a group is extremely difficult; the whole planting tends to look unnatural. Apart from this, four is regarded as an unlucky number in Japan.

Then one can have more than one trunk emerging from one set of roots; in other words, you can have two or three coming from one root. One can also lay a tree flat in the pot, training the branches to represent a forest. This is called the raft style.

The only essential difference between rock plantings and the other styles is that the tree is planted in a cavity of the rock-using the rock as a pot-or with the roots trained over the rock and into the soil. The most important thing about any particular style is that the end result must look natural and balanced.

Watering
Never let the bonsai tree dry out. In the Summer it might be necessary to water twice a day. In the Winter one might only need to water every fortnight or every month. This depends entirely on the dryness of the soil.

As with other plants, bonsai prefer to be watered with rain water, but tap water, that has been allowed to stand over night adjusting its temperature and giving off any chemical content, is perfectly adequate.

Use a watering can with a very fine rose or watering nozzle; heavy droplets will tend to wash the soil from the pot and also form a skin over the surface of the soil, which will inhibit the circulation of oxygen to the roots. The best times to water are early morning and late afternoon, avoiding the heat of the an. In the Winter and up to the middle of day, when late frosts
sometimes occur, I always water in the morning. It is not a good idea to water in the evening at this time of the year as the tree will not have had time to assimilate the moisture before the frost comes, and too much water in the soil will freeze solid, sometimes fracturing the pot.

During the Summer and early Autumn one an switch the main watering to the evening or late
afternoon. This is more convenient than the morning. However, try to maintain rhythm of watering; in other words, if you water in the morning, stick to watering in the morning; if you water in the evening, stick to watering in the evening. Believe it or not, a plant almost expects its regular watering; if it doesn't get it, its health can be affected. At the height of the Summer
it might be found necessary to water more than twice a day, in which ase the third watering will take place about mid-day.

If this is the case, do not water with a watering can as the droplets of water on the leaves of deciduous trees will form a magnifying glass through which the sun will scorch the leaves. To avoid this use a watering nozzle or immerse the pot to the rim in water, allow the soil to assimilate the moisture and then allow the tree to drain off. This method of watering is also
very useful for trees that have just been potted as it does not disturb the soil.

It must always be remembered that a thorough soaking is better than a few drops given more often. After each watering, the water must be seen to run out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot and only then can one be sure that the moisture has ) penetrated to every part of the root system. The only exception to this is if the tree has been allowed to dry out completely; the soil will then crack away from the sides of the pot, and imply watering overhead with a watering-can will allow the water to slip straight down the ides of the pot and out of the drainage holes. In this case again the method of immersing he pot to the rim should be used, and the soil should be pressed down around the edges so hat it again forms contact with the pot.


A Final Word
I hope this booklet has stimulated your interest in Bonsai trees. Although all of us react
differently it has been my experience that a hobby like Bonsai has almost limitless
possibilities. One can spend hour after hour with them, moving a twig here, cuffing a
shoot there.

On the other hand it does not take a lifetime of dedicated patience to enjoy
the beauty of Bonsai trees; it is certainly possible that the reader has little time to sparethen a few minutes a day can keep a small collection looking cheerful and happy.

One can also experiment with many different plants, not just trees and shrubs. The
Japanese plant a lot of herbs, grasses, etc. to enjoy during the hot (we hope!) yellow
summer months. Why not plant a small collection of so-called weeds in a shallow
container? Weeds such as Couch grass, Mare's tail and dandelions can look very
effective, either together or by themselves. Once again one can appreciate a part of
nature that is usually ignored.

Finally the rules of Bonsai culture are not nearly as rigid as they might appear. One can
roughly divide them into two categories: the health and vitality of the plant and the
aesthetic reproduction of nature in miniature. The first is absolutely essential, it should
never be ignored. The second category is basically personal-perhaps you feel the tree
looks better with two branches opposing; aesthetically it might be wrong but if you like
your tree that way then keep it like that. You can still appreciate the delicate tracery on
a newly-opened leaf. Just enjoy the company and life of your Bonsai trees.

This is one of many types of Citrus Bonsai, it is 6 years old and stands 30cm tall
For further reading on the world of Bonsai click here We are constantly trying to improve the products and services that we offer to you our customers and would welcome any feedback good or bad, it will all be taken on board and if possible we will take action to incorporate your suggestions into the site and this report. Click here to email me your feedback.

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Tuesday, April 28, 2009
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Seasonal care and protection

Posted by Hobby Bonsai at 9:18 AM
General care

Contrary to a popular misconception, the first principle of bonsai culture is to maintain the trees in a healthy state. The dwarfing of a tree is not achieved by soil starvation or by having the tree the minimum water necessary. Nor is it necessary to perform strange rites before a bonsai tree. Bonsai trees have similar needs to the oak or the tiny daisy. The essence of their care is continuity and regularity; a few minutes a day is infinitely better than a couple of hours every two weeks.

Fertiliser and humus
Adding humus to the tree should not be necessary as this vital element in the soil is added then the tree is repotted.

Fertiliser should be given at regular intervals from Spring to Autumn. Inorganic fertilisers are not often used with bonsai trees as their action is too sudden. Organic fertilisers have a low
continuous action. However, if a tree needs a quick lift then inorganic is preferable.

One of the easiest methods of fertilising is to use an organic liquid feed that can be bought from
a Garden Centre or a garden shop; it might be added that it is not essential to use Japanese
fertiliser such as soya bean mash, rice bran etc. Dilute the liquid feed to the minimum suggested.
One generally fertilises at 10-day intervals but this is not to be regarded as exact; if the weather
is very wet and one continues to fertilise, it will tend to produce a lot of long sappy growth which will have to be removed from the tree. In this particular instance the fertiliser should be cut down to about every two to three weeks. Watching the tree and applying when it is necessary is much the best.

One can also use solid fertilisers, again organic, but as a lot of these tend to form moulds on the soils, or to give off an offensive smell, one will probably find that liquid feeding is the most convenient. If the tree is to be leaf cut (see notes on Training), it should be given a little more fertiliser for three weeks before and after it has been cut. One can also slow down the frequency of the application between the middle of May and the end of June as the trees should be growing vigorously during that period.

Soil
The tree might be beautifully trained but the effect will be greatly marred by careless treatment
of the soil surface. Moss should be encouraged to grow or planted at the time of re-potting. This
cuts down excessive evaporation from the soil surface during hot weather, and also stops the
soil being washed from the pot during heavy rain. However, it should be thinned out every few
months by pulling up a tuft here and there to stop the moss from becoming too packed. All
weeds, especially liverwort, should be removed immediately and any small under plantings of
rockery plants should be thinned out from time to time.

When adding compost be sure that it isn't too fine. If compost is too fine it then cakes up and
the Bonsai tree cannot get air and water to the roots. If this happens it can die. Try using a
scoop and sieve when applying the compost to avoid this potential problem.

Rotting leaves, twigs and general debris should be removed from the soil surface. Not only do
they look unsightly but they provide an excellent breeding ground for insects. Apart from moss,
one can also decorate the soil surface with small rocks, gravel, pebbles, etc.

Fungus and mildew
As with other plants Bonsai trees are subject to attack from fungus and mildew. They should
always be kept in a light airy position where there is plenty of air circulation and ventilation is
good. Immediately one sees either fungus, mildew, or rust on one's trees they should be treated
with a proprietary brand of fungicide mixed to the manufacturers' instructions.

Insects
All insects are not committed to the utter destruction of expensive bonsai trees. Ladybirds, for
instance, feed on the young of the aphids. In the soil centipedes-thin and yellowish with a host
of legs-are beneficial, whereas wireworms-thin and yellowish with few legs-are enemies; as are
millipedes-dark grey with many legs.

The insects to be discouraged above the soil are as follows: the Aphid family, green black and
woolly (usually seen feeding on the sap of young growth), mealy bugs (tiny scraps of cotton
wool in leaf axils), red spider (occasionally seen on warm days on the underside of leaves;
leaves attacked turn bronze and drop off), thrips (thunder bugs, small holes and silvery marks
on leaves), boring insects (the leopard moth is one; the pupal case might be seen adhering to
the trunk or branch attacked), leaf miners (silvery or irregular lines appear on leaves). Other
more easily recognised pests are caterpillars, slugs, snails, earwigs, etc.

Ants, worms and woodlice do not cause as much damage as the above but they should not be
encouraged. Ants disturb soil, encourage aphids, and remove seed from seed trays. They may
also disturb soil and block drainage holes. Woodlice live under debris and rubbish and attack
seedlings and young growth close to the ground. Neither worms nor woodlice are likely to attack trees if they are kept off the ground. Ants can be discouraged by immersing the whole tree in water for twenty-four hours. Fo rpsecific information on Pests and Insects try "The Art of Indoor Bonsai" or if you want to know which pests are attracted to which trees check out "The A-Z of Bonsai".

The best way of discouraging attacks by insects is to maintain the health of the trees and by
regular spraying with cold water during the Spring and Summer. Occasionally, however,
insecticides are needed, but when these are used they should always be applied at their
weakest to avoid damaging young growth.

Seasonal care and protection
Varieties of bonsai trees that come from tropical and sub tropical climates will have to be protected from even the slightest frost As such they can be kept indoors during the winter months, but they will benefit from periods outside during the summer.

Most trees from Japan are hardy and a light frost will not affect them at all. However, continuous severe frost will stop the translocation of water from the roots to the trunk and branches and might also fracture the pots. To avoid this some protection can be given (please refer to chapter on Display). If a display bench, such as the one described in the chapter on
Display, is used one should have little need to worry about the extremes of weather that occur throughout the year. However, always be on the lookout for excessively heavy rain, high wind, burning sun, snow, etc., and take the necessary precautions
to ensure the health of the trees.
Re-potting
When re-potting most plants one chooses a larger pot to allow for the expansion of the root ball.

When Bonsai trees are re-potted the same pot is used unless the tree has been allowed to
develop out of proportion to the pot. Generally speaking, trees should only be re-potted when
they have become pot-bound. In other words, the roots will have thoroughly penetrated the
compost and will be growing out of the drainage holes. If allowed to remain in this condition they will eventually die through simple starvation.

The best time for re-potting is in early Spring, through March and early April, though some trees such as Winter Jasmine can be re-potted at almost any time of the year. It is still safer to re-pot in the Spring just before the tree has started to grow. The materials used are (1) small pieces of plastic mesh to cover the drainage holes, (2) garden wire to tie the tree into the pot, (3) gravel or flint chips to act as drainage in the bottom of the pot, (4) sterilised sand, (5) peat and/or leaf mould, and (6) sterilised loam.

It is suggested that soil mixtures are made up for three basic types of trees: evergreens,
deciduous trees, fruiting and flowering trees. For evergreens a mixture seven parts sterilised
loam to three parts sharp sand is ideal. For deciduous trees, use eight parts sterilised loam to
two parts sharp sand. For fruiting and flowering trees, use eight parts sterilised loam, one part
sharp sand and one part peat or leaf mould. Naturally enough, for individual species in any
group, the suggested mixtures might have to be altered to a certain extent: Pines for instance,
need faster drainage than Junipers. Therefore an extra part sharp sand would be needed.

To remove the tree from the pot, run a sharp knife around the sides of the pot, knock the sides
of the pot with the heel of the hand; the tree can then be lifted from the pot. Clean the pot
completely, cut pieces of plastic netting to cover the drainage holes, insert the holding wires
through the holes, put a layer of flint chips or sterilised gravel on the bottom and a thin layer of
compost. Remove all dead roots from the tree and cut back the remaining roots from the sides
and the bottom by approximately one to two thirds. This will depend on the age of the tree: the
older it is the fewer roots are removed. Position the tree in the pot, moving it gently backwards
and forwards to ensure a firm grip with the soil underneath.

Tie the tree in with the wire (not too tight), pour the soil mixture in around the sides of the root ball until the pot is full up. Work the soil in around the roots with fingers or a small stick-this is to ensure that there are no air pockets. After putting in the main soil and tamping it down a thin layer of top soil can be used; this can be of a finer grade than that used in the main potting. The tree can then be watered by immersing it to the rim of the pot in a bowl of rain water. When it has been thoroughly soaked, remove it from the water, allow it to drain and protect it for two weeks from harsh sunlight and heavy rain. This will give it a chance to get over the shock of re-potting. During this time do not fertilise it at all. For detailed instructions on how to re-pot your bonsai see "The Art of Indoor Bonsai"

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Acquiring a Bonsai-buying a trained tree

Posted by Hobby Bonsai at 9:16 AM
With the increasing demand for bonsai trees it is not surprising that more and more garden centres and florists are stocking
them.

Most of the trees being sold are of an excellent quality, but there are few points to bear in mind when buying. Although
bonsai trees imported from the Far East are thought to be expensive, a small tree, say a Mountain Maple or Fig of eight to ten
years, can be bought for approximately £20 fully potted up. Naturally enough, one can pay almost anything for a Bonsai, the
record price being over £100,000 in Japan for an exceptionally beautiful tree over five hundred years old.

Apart from the age and the shape of the tree, its general health is of the utmost importance. The soil should be damp but not sodden unless it has just been watered-certainly not rock-hard and dry. The leaves should look bright and healthy-not burnt around the edges or spotted. If one buys a deciduous tree in the Winter, examine the last year's growth to see that it is
smooth and plump, with no sign of the bark wrinkling.
The tree should be steady in the container in which it is growing. The container must have at least one drainage hole. Moss growing on the surface can either show that the tree has been in its pot for a number of months or years, or that the dealer has taken some trouble in its repotting. When buying a tree from a shop during the Summer, be sure to give it at least two weeks outside, avoiding heavy rain and high winds, before displaying it inside again.

If a tree has been bought from a shop or the show house of a Garden Centre during the Winter, do not allow it to be exposed to the frost for the rest of the season as it will probably have begun to shoot. This is most important with deciduous trees, and whilst varieties of Junipers are very hardy, it is, as well not to take any chances. They will, of course, benefit from the fresh air during milder weather.

Trees can be propagated by any of the normal methods; in other words, by seed, cuttings, layering, dividing, air-layering or grafting. Grafting, however, is not used very often as it tends to leave a scar around the trunk for a number of years. To reduce scaring I use Kiyonal Sealant. Kiyonal is the perfect substance for healing wounds on Bonsai. It forms a skin but stays
liquid underneath so will not crack away from parts of the wound. It will expand and contract with the different seasons.

Natural free
In Japan, the most admired bonsai trees are those that Nature has trained herself. Wherever
growing conditions are a struggle, the tiny tree that has fought for decades to survive the storms
and droughts might be found high in the mountains clinging to a cliff, or yen on a grassy
moorland constantly being pruned back by wild deer. When collecting from nature, there three
essential rules.

1. Find a suitable tree.
2. Always have the owner's permission before removing it.
3. Be sure that it can be looked after; trees from nature, nlcss little more than seedlings, need
almost constant care for the first few months, as the shock of transplanting will be considerable.

The best season to lift a wild tree is early Spring-March/April time. The tools needed re a small
spade or strong trowel, secateurs, a saw, a strong knife, plastic bags or polythene heeting,
Sphagnum moss, scissors, and string.

Dig a trench around the tree at the furthest extent of the branches (normal trees usually have
roots extending this far; dwarfed trees will often have roots that have been forced to seek out
nourishment much further from the main trunk). Avoid cutting roots over half an inch in diameter until the trench has been completed. All roots will be cut so that the cut plants in at the bottom helping to stop moisture lying on the wound. Once the trench is dug, cut all the roots over half an inch in diameter. If the soil is firm, grasp the root ball in both iands and gently rock it to and fro.

If there is no tap root the tree can be lifted almost straight out; otherwise the tap root should be
cut down as low as possible.

Inside or out?
The idea that bonsai trees can be permanent house guests is a fallacy that should never have
arisen. Most of them are hardy trees and shrubs whose natural homes is the open air. Others,
that come from the tropics and sub tropics. need protecting from the frost and these should be
kept in a warm environment during the winter months.

This can either be your house or a warm greenhouse. However even these need to go outside as much as possible during the summer months. Hardy bonsai trees should never be brought in the house for longer than a few days at a time. To extend the tree's stay inside for longer than four or five days can cause injury to the tree. In the Summer the plant must be able to carry out the process of photosynthesis: this is The production of plant food and oxygen from carbon dioxide when the sun activates the chlorophyll in the leaves.
During the Winter the plant is resting and building up reserves of energy for the coming growing season. Too long in a warm room will persuade it to start shooting as though it were Spring. But this does not apply to trees from the tropics that need an approximate minimum winter temperature of 5degrees F or 1 degree C, although temperatures in excess of 7OF or 2C can be detrimental. If a normally hardy tree is then exposed to a hard frost the results.

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