tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-82313803882662133062024-03-14T02:18:31.714-07:00The Ancient Art of BonsaiFausto Baccinohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.comBlogger19713tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-52271033820847777642021-09-09T16:05:00.012-07:002021-09-16T13:36:59.080-07:00The Diospyros kaki as bonsai is also quite easy to follow in its growth process.<p>It is mainly the wild persimmons that bear fruits of the astringent type to be used for cultivation as bonsai, and in our country they are particularly common in the woods of the center. <br /></p><p>Its formation is not difficult and it is also quite simple to follow in its growth process. <br /></p><p>For these reasons, it is particularly recommended for beginners and less patient bonsai growers, because, if properly cared for, it offers satisfaction in a very short time: you can make it bear fruit in a year or two from its pot cultivation. <br /></p><p>To give it, however, the character that only a mature bonsai tree can express, it will take years of work and application of techniques. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-De_5EvijVZg/YTvhu-75MuI/AAAAAAAACPo/mIWeQey3U14EnQIDv-X_JtpDfSQw3qaGgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/Diospyros%2Bkaki.jpg.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="623" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-De_5EvijVZg/YTvhu-75MuI/AAAAAAAACPo/mIWeQey3U14EnQIDv-X_JtpDfSQw3qaGgCLcBGAsYHQ/w624-h640/Diospyros%2Bkaki.jpg.png" width="624" /></a></div><br />
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">The Diospyros kaki as bonsai.<br /></h3><p></p><p>One of the qualities of this species is the possibility to cultivate it in many styles including: upright, cascade, littered, two trunks,
multiple trunk, raft and wood. <br /></p><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b>Exposure.</b><br /></h4><p>The ideal location for this species is breezy and sunny. Even during the summer, the Diospyros kaki doesn't need particular protection: only in case you don't have the possibility to constantly check the state of the soil it is advisable to shade it. </p><p>During the winter months, no particular precautions should be taken, except for the moments when the temperature drops below zero: in this case it is necessary to place the tree in a sheltered place, so that the ground doesn't freeze.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b>Watering.</b><br /></h4><p>The Diospyros kaki needs abundant watering, especially during the flowering period. It is good to water, making sure of the condition of the soil, as it should be watered only when it is slightly dry to the touch.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b>Soil.</b><br /></h4><p>The most suitable compound for this species is made of: 80% akadama and 20% sand.<br /><b></b></p><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b>Repotting.</b><br /></h4><p>The best period for transplanting this species is spring, before the vegetative awakening. </p><p>The frequency with which to transplant is every 2-3 years; once the growth phase is over, because of the rapid development of the roots, it is better to operate every year.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b>Pruning.</b><br /></h4><p>As for this operation, it should be kept in mind the objectives for which it is applied: if the purpose is the formation of branches, pruning should be done from October to February, after the fall of leaves; in case the objective is fructification, in June, when fruits stop growing, branches are pruned, selecting the ones to be left. </p><p>It is always better to intervene on young branches, because when they reach 15-20 cm of length, they become extremely rigid.<br /></p><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b>Pruning.</b><br /></h4><p>Since the Caco, becomes particularly fascinating when it bears its fruits, the primary objective of the stapling is to obtain the greatest possible number of flower buds. </p><p>The best method is to staple two buds to the branch, every time it has four, during the growing season.<br /></p><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b>Wrapping.</b><br /></h4><p>There are two ideal periods for applying wire to the Caco. If it is necessary to bend large branches, the best time is in autumn, when the leaves begin to turn yellow. </p><p>The wire should be applied, being careful not to crush any buds. Keep in mind that the branches of this plant are rather fragile, therefore it is better to bend them in two stages: initially they are slightly bent and after two/three days the bending is completed. </p><p>Generally, the wire will be removed after the flowering of the following year. If, on the other hand, it is necessary to shape the new vegetation, it should be done in June, before they lignify: it will be possible to shape the branches without effort and without running the risk of breakage. As soon as the wire begins to cut the bark, it must be removed.<b><br /></b></p><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b>Fertilization.</b><br /></h4><p>At the end of flowering, after pruning, feed Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer combined with Bonsan Liquid Organic Fertilizer 3 times at 8-10 day intervals. </p><p>This fertilization can be substituted with Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer plus Bonsan Organic Solid Fertilizer Hanagokoro 2 times every 15-20 days. </p><p>At other times, use Bonsan Liquid Organic Fertilizer every 15 days until October, or Bonsan Hanagokoro Solid Organic Fertilizer every 15-25 days, excluding July and August. Twice a year (in autumn and at the end of winter) administer Bonsan Organic Solid Fertilizer Hanagokoro; 3-4 times a year it is also appropriate to intervene with Bonsan Mineral Curative Solution. To stimulate rooting, use Bonsan Fluid Organic Mineral Fertilizer with B vitamins instead of Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b>Care.</b><br /></h4><p>If you exclude cochineal, it is not particularly prone to disease. In any case, in order to avoid that, like all fruit trees, it is attacked by fungi and viruses, it is important to periodically make preventive treatments.</p>
<script>mbtTOC2();</script>Fausto Baccinohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-11032760259927446222021-08-12T16:00:00.006-07:002021-09-16T13:34:44.909-07:00 In bonsai art, the Cydonia is much appreciated for the beauty of its fruits and the strong dynamism of its trunk.<p>In bonsai art, the Cydonia is much appreciated for the beauty of its fruits and the strong dynamism of its trunk. </p><p> Moreover, being a vigorous and robust tree, it is rather easy to form. </p><p style="text-align: left;">The styles to which it best adapts are: upright, inclined, prostrate, cascading, 2-trunk, common stump, multi-trunk, raft and group. <br /></p><p style="text-align: center;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eVGZMttajmw/YT0TNEofWcI/AAAAAAAACPw/OqIqMP0S2BQqKc5lwieMMmL7NPiQ5RptwCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/cydonia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="480" data-original-width="640" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eVGZMttajmw/YT0TNEofWcI/AAAAAAAACPw/OqIqMP0S2BQqKc5lwieMMmL7NPiQ5RptwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/cydonia.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p></p>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">The Cydonia bonsai is much appreciated for the beauty of its fruits and the strong dynamism of its trunk.</h3><div style="text-align: left;">The Cydonia Bonsai is native to China and Korea: it is distinguished by the very special scaly bark that opens over the years and the leaves that, during the fall season, go through a range of shades of gold, orange, red, to purple. It produces pretty pink flowers in the spring, which then give way to fragrant yellow fruit in the fall. Bonsai of great charm and easy cultivation. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><h4 style="text-align: left;">Exposure.</h4><p>Likes to be exposed to full sun all year round.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Watering.<br /></h4><p>During the vegetative season it must be daily. In particular, watering must be meticulously controlled after flowering, since the main cause of the loss of the fruits, when they are still immature, is just the lack of water.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Soil.<br /></h4><p>The most suitable compost for this species is made up of: 90% akadama and 10% ready-mixed earth.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b>Potting.</b><br /></h4><p>Repotting is done every two-three years in spring.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Pruning.</h4><p>The main objective of pruning the apexes of the branches of this species is to divert the energy of growth concentrated in the peripheral areas, in order to stimulate the formation of buds. </p><p>This intervention, when necessary, is carried out in spring.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Picking.<br /></h4><p>During the phase of formation of the branches, which can last even some years, it is not necessary to worry about the appearance of flowers, but to pinch every time it is necessary to make the new shoots branch. </p><p>After this period, it will be necessary to concentrate on the flower buds, postponing every stapling of the new shoots to the end of June, leaving only a couple of internodes, in order to preserve the flower buds.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Winding.<br /></h4><p>Wire is applied on the branches in order to lower them.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Fertilization.</h4><p>At the end of flowering, after pruning, apply Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer combined with Bonsan Liquid Organic Fertilizer 3 times at 8-10 days intervals. </p><p>This fertilization can be substituted with Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer plus Bonsan Organic Solid Fertilizer Hanagokoro 2 times every 15-20 days. At other times, use Bonsan Liquid Organic Fertilizer every 15 days until October, or Bonsan Hanagokoro Solid Organic Fertilizer every 15-25 days, excluding July and August. Twice a year (in autumn and at the end of winter) administer Bonsan Organic Solid Fertilizer Hanagokoro; 3-4 times a year it is also appropriate to intervene with Bonsan Mineral Curative Solution. </p><p>To stimulate rooting, use Bonsan Fluid Organic Mineral Fertilizer with B vitamins instead of Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Care.<br /></h4><p>It is especially susceptible to mold and rot.<br /><br /></p>
<script>mbtTOC2();</script>Fausto Baccinohttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12787818364569309583noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8231380388266213306.post-26441636680562234682021-07-17T15:57:00.007-07:002021-09-16T13:35:30.530-07:00 Cryptomeria is highly sought after as a bonsai species due to its foliage and habit.<p><b>Cryptomeria </b>is highly sought after as a bonsai species due to its foliage and habit. Although it can be trained in different styles, formal upright, rockery, double-trunk and multiple-trunk, the one to which it is best suited is definitely the formal since it follows the typical growth form of Cryptomeria. </p><p> Its tendency to grow straight is so pronounced that even wrapping the trunk to curve it, it would soon resume the vertical position. Its vertical development is guaranteed by a particularly strong nebari; the plant itself is very vigorous, growing continuously from spring to autumn, including summer. </p><p>This characteristic, if on one hand makes it easy to cultivate, on the other hand easily makes the tree lose its right proportions and therefore it is necessary a constant attention in shaping. </p><p style="text-align: center;"></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pqekZmOQ644/YT_RH9iC8tI/AAAAAAAACQM/RDEmX8GMxJ4cZYcT-ItG1vB7cR6gmqdDACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/criptomeria-japonica.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="485" data-original-width="640" height="486" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pqekZmOQ644/YT_RH9iC8tI/AAAAAAAACQM/RDEmX8GMxJ4cZYcT-ItG1vB7cR6gmqdDACLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h486/criptomeria-japonica.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p>
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<h3 style="text-align: left;">La Cryptomeria es muy bella como bonsái debido a su follaje. <br /></h3><p>The great popularity it has among bonsai lovers is mainly due to its speed of development, thanks to which Cryptomeria reaches a good state of maturity in few years. </p><p>This is a characteristic that can also be seen by observing the bark, which quickly takes on a magnificent old and wrinkled appearance.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Exposure.</h4><p>This species loves warm and humid situations, but younger specimens cannot stand intense direct sun. </p><p>In particularly dry climates, the most suitable position is in mid-shade, while in cold climates it is good to protect the plant in winter by placing it in a cold greenhouse or in a sheltered but not heated place. </p><p>In no case, however, it must be subjected to continuous frosts. </p><p> It should also be considered that adult plants, contrary to young ones, love to be exposed in full sun because it favors the development of a tiny and compact foliage.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;"><b>Watering.</b></h4><p>Generally it needs more frequent watering compared to the other evergreen species; in summer it can be necessary to water 3, 4 times a day, keeping in mind that, from spring to autumn, it constantly needs conspicuous water administrations. </p><p>Even in winter, however, we must not neglect to guarantee the indispensable degree of humidity, regularly intervening both on the aerial part through the nebulization of the needles, and on the soil with the watering, avoiding to dry it completely.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Soil.</h4><p>The most suitable compound for this species is made of: akadama 70%, ready soil 20% and sand 10%.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Re-potting.</h4><p>Since the Cryptomeria produces new roots in abundance, transplanting is very simple and does not involve great risks. Transplant once every 2-3 years for training specimens and once every 3-5 years for more mature specimens, always in mid-spring.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Pruning.</h4><p>Since the typical style of growth of the Cryptomeria is the formal erect, it means that the placement of branches along the trunk is well defined: alternating branching, left and right, back branches from the first branch and front branches in the upper third of the tree. </p><p>After the first training pruning, with which the basic structure is modeled, it will rarely happen to have to prune important branches; however, if it is necessary, it is necessary to use healing paste to avoid lymph leakage, remembering that the best time to intervene is at the end of winter. </p><p>As for the maintenance pruning, it is good to keep in mind that this plant tends to grow compact, producing an infinity of shoots and dry leaves inside: to modify this natural process, it is necessary to constantly thin out the branches, separating the vegetation stakes, so that every branch can be clearly delimited and the light can reach even the most internal areas.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Picking.</h4><p>Nipping is the most important work for this species and it is practiced during the whole period of growth, approximately until the end of September. </p><p>The objective is to obtain sufficiently thick branches distributed in stakes. The intervention must be done only by using the fingers, tearing the top of each bud; in no case the shears must be used, otherwise the cut tips will dry up. </p><p>Before proceeding indiscriminately with this operation, it must be considered that with the stapling a good silhouette of the plant is maintained, but it slows down the development, therefore if it is necessary to make a branch grow bigger it must be abstained from stapling it.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Winding.</h4><p>This is a technique that is applied only in the initial phase to correct the trunk or place the branches in the proper position, bearing in mind that the best time to intervene is from late spring to autumn. Later, as the branches become very dense, the winding will be quite difficult to apply: if it is absolutely necessary, it will be better to use tie rods.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Fertilization.</h4><p>From April to early July, fertilize every 15 days with Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer together with Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer, or once a month with Bonsan Hanagokoro Organic Solid Fertilizer plus Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer. </p><p>From late August through October, fertilize every 15 days with Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer or Bonsan Hanagokoro Organic Solid Fertilizer. Apply Bonsan Organic Solid Fertilizer Hanagokoro twice a year (in autumn and at the end of winter); 3-4 times a year Bonsan Mineral Curative Solution should also be used. To stimulate rooting, use Bonsan Fluid Organic Mineral Fertilizer with B vitamins instead of Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer.</p><h4 style="text-align: left;">Cure.</h4><p>The diseases that most frequently affect this species are the red spider mite and mealybug. For both, the solution is to use an acaricide and a systemic insecticide, keeping the tree clean of dry needles. </p><p>It tends not to suffer fungal attacks if the compost has adequate drainage and if the location is in a well-ventilated place.<br /></p>
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