Carpinus bonsai cultivation is quite popular because it has a well-balanced trunk.

 Bonsai cultivation of this plant is quite popular because in addition to possessing fine, thin branching it also has a well-balanced trunk. 

With the exception of the formal upright, the Hornbeam can be trained in any style and is especially valued when trained as a medium-sized bonsai. 

 

Carpinus bonsai cultivation is quite popular.

The varieties that are most frequently used in the East for bonsai creation are Carpinus turkzaninowii, Carpinus cordata, Carpinus laxiflora and Carpinus coreana, while in Europe and America the oriunda species is Carpinus betulus which is quite widespread and is perfectly adaptable to bonsai cultivation.

Exposure.

With the exception of the hottest months of the year, when it is better to guarantee this species a half-shade position, the Hornbeam should always be placed in full sun, keeping in mind, however, that its roots are rather sensitive to intense heat and could easily burn. In order for the plant to benefit only from the sun irradiation, without its root system being affected, it is advisable to keep a constant layer of moss over the surface of the substrate. 

Also because of the particular conformation of its roots, during the most rigid periods of winter it should be protected from frosts, placing it in a sheltered place.

Watering.

As for watering, the Hornbeam does not have needs that differ from the general ones, therefore an adequate watering should be abundant in summer, with frequent nebulizations, while more reduced in autumn, in proportion to the decrease of water needs by the plant. 

It is necessary to pay attention, however, to never let the soil dry completely, not even during the most rigid months of winter. In order to avoid water stagnations, it is important to guarantee a good rainage.

Soil.

The most suitable soil mixture is made of akadama (80%) and ready-made soil (20%).

Potting.

Repotting is done in March, when the buds begin to swell, pruning the roots and completely eliminating the old and rotten ones. 

It is necessary to keep in mind that in the first ten years of life of the plant, the frequency of the transplant will have to be every two years, while afterwards it will be possible to spend even more time before it is necessary to intervene.

Pruning.

The hornbeam has a tendency to lose branches in winter, so pruning should be done in early spring. One way to avoid, or at least reduce, this tendency is to keep the silhouette of the branches very outlined, so that air and light can reach all parts of the tree. To redefine the silhouette, cut back new shoots at 2 or 3 nodes. 

When pruning it is advisable to let the shoots grow and only then shorten them considerably, otherwise there is a risk of sap withdrawal in the winter period. Another form of pruning, which concerns branches with moderate growth, is the elimination of the last shoot, which generally looks very big if compared to the rest: by cutting it in spring, the branch will appear more proportioned. 

Since the apex of the Hornbeam is rather vigorous, it must be pruned more aggressively than the other areas, in order to ensure a better distribution of energy in the plant. In this sense it is essential that at the apex there are not too strong branches compared to the thickness of the trunk and the size of the main branches.

Picking.

The branches of the Hornbeam do not require a strong clamping. It must be considered, however, that its leaves are born alternately on the branches, so when clamping it will be necessary to take into account the direction in which the new shoot will develop. 

The clamping can be light, intervening with the fingers only on the new leaves in formation, or more aggressive, cutting the rest of the branch with scissors and leaving only 2-3 leaves. 

Carpinus has a certain tendency to dry out its branches during the winter, so it is preferable to let the twigs grow and then staple them in the summer, when they will have swollen. 

Topping, which is mainly used to correct the difference in vigor between branches, should be applied when the shoots have just opened, intervening more aggressively on the strong ones and only slightly on the weak ones.

Winding.

To give a good structure to the tree you can also intervene with the winding, taking care, however, to apply it at appropriate times, ie in spring or alternatively in early autumn. 

Since the bark is extremely delicate, the wire should be carefully covered with adhesive paper for florists, also should be checked frequently to ensure that it does not tighten too much the branches and / or the trunk.

Fertilization.

April through early July; late August through October.

Cure.

This species is quite subject to lepidopterans, beetles and powdery mildew. 

The Hornbeam is also attacked by the red spider mite, which, if it manifests itself in a light form, can be eliminated by simply spraying the plant in an energetic way; if the attack is rather strong, it is appropriate to intervene with specific acaricide treatments.

Other Similar Posts That Could Interest You By Fausto Baccino

Do you ever wonder what happens when your readers reach the end of your posts? What do they click on? Where do they go next? What if you’ve piqued a reader’s interest and left them wanting more, but don’t give them the option to do so? Now, we’ll search your site for similar posts you’ve written and display a “Related” section at the end of every post, like this: