Cryptomeria is highly sought after as a bonsai species due to its foliage and habit. Although it can be trained in different styles, formal upright, rockery, double-trunk and multiple-trunk, the one to which it is best suited is definitely the formal since it follows the typical growth form of Cryptomeria.
Its tendency to grow straight is so pronounced that even wrapping the trunk to curve it, it would soon resume the vertical position. Its vertical development is guaranteed by a particularly strong nebari; the plant itself is very vigorous, growing continuously from spring to autumn, including summer.
This characteristic, if on one hand makes it easy to cultivate, on the other hand easily makes the tree lose its right proportions and therefore it is necessary a constant attention in shaping.
La Cryptomeria es muy bella como bonsái debido a su follaje.
The great popularity it has among bonsai lovers is mainly due to its speed of development, thanks to which Cryptomeria reaches a good state of maturity in few years.
This is a characteristic that can also be seen by observing the bark, which quickly takes on a magnificent old and wrinkled appearance.
Exposure.
This species loves warm and humid situations, but younger specimens cannot stand intense direct sun.
In particularly dry climates, the most suitable position is in mid-shade, while in cold climates it is good to protect the plant in winter by placing it in a cold greenhouse or in a sheltered but not heated place.
In no case, however, it must be subjected to continuous frosts.
It should also be considered that adult plants, contrary to young ones, love to be exposed in full sun because it favors the development of a tiny and compact foliage.
Watering.
Generally it needs more frequent watering compared to the other evergreen species; in summer it can be necessary to water 3, 4 times a day, keeping in mind that, from spring to autumn, it constantly needs conspicuous water administrations.
Even in winter, however, we must not neglect to guarantee the indispensable degree of humidity, regularly intervening both on the aerial part through the nebulization of the needles, and on the soil with the watering, avoiding to dry it completely.
Soil.
The most suitable compound for this species is made of: akadama 70%, ready soil 20% and sand 10%.
Re-potting.
Since the Cryptomeria produces new roots in abundance, transplanting is very simple and does not involve great risks. Transplant once every 2-3 years for training specimens and once every 3-5 years for more mature specimens, always in mid-spring.
Pruning.
Since the typical style of growth of the Cryptomeria is the formal erect, it means that the placement of branches along the trunk is well defined: alternating branching, left and right, back branches from the first branch and front branches in the upper third of the tree.
After the first training pruning, with which the basic structure is modeled, it will rarely happen to have to prune important branches; however, if it is necessary, it is necessary to use healing paste to avoid lymph leakage, remembering that the best time to intervene is at the end of winter.
As for the maintenance pruning, it is good to keep in mind that this plant tends to grow compact, producing an infinity of shoots and dry leaves inside: to modify this natural process, it is necessary to constantly thin out the branches, separating the vegetation stakes, so that every branch can be clearly delimited and the light can reach even the most internal areas.
Picking.
Nipping is the most important work for this species and it is practiced during the whole period of growth, approximately until the end of September.
The objective is to obtain sufficiently thick branches distributed in stakes. The intervention must be done only by using the fingers, tearing the top of each bud; in no case the shears must be used, otherwise the cut tips will dry up.
Before proceeding indiscriminately with this operation, it must be considered that with the stapling a good silhouette of the plant is maintained, but it slows down the development, therefore if it is necessary to make a branch grow bigger it must be abstained from stapling it.
Winding.
This is a technique that is applied only in the initial phase to correct the trunk or place the branches in the proper position, bearing in mind that the best time to intervene is from late spring to autumn. Later, as the branches become very dense, the winding will be quite difficult to apply: if it is absolutely necessary, it will be better to use tie rods.
Fertilization.
From April to early July, fertilize every 15 days with Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer together with Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer, or once a month with Bonsan Hanagokoro Organic Solid Fertilizer plus Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer.
From late August through October, fertilize every 15 days with Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer or Bonsan Hanagokoro Organic Solid Fertilizer. Apply Bonsan Organic Solid Fertilizer Hanagokoro twice a year (in autumn and at the end of winter); 3-4 times a year Bonsan Mineral Curative Solution should also be used. To stimulate rooting, use Bonsan Fluid Organic Mineral Fertilizer with B vitamins instead of Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer.
Cure.
The diseases that most frequently affect this species are the red spider mite and mealybug. For both, the solution is to use an acaricide and a systemic insecticide, keeping the tree clean of dry needles.
It tends not to suffer fungal attacks if the compost has adequate drainage and if the location is in a well-ventilated place.
In the Japanese cedar in autumn the leaves can acquire a dark copper-red color that lasts until spring. This is due to the presence of protective pigments against cold.
ReplyDeleteIt is one of the reasons from which it derives its name. From the Greek “cryptós”, hidden, unknown, and “méros”, part, due to the different color of the parts that are not given by light.
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