Its Japanese name "Kaede", means "toad's hand" and in fact its characteristic trident-shaped leaves recall the webbed legs of a toad.
With its upright trunk and light brown bark, which flakes off as it ages, this plant is particularly striking in autumn, when its leaves take on vibrant orange hues.
It is quite suitable for woodland cultivation because it has narrow internodes.
Acer buergerianum is a striking bonsai.
It is a hardy species, generally able to withstand cold as well as heat. It is long-lived as a bonsai cultivated essence, it is also easy to shape and responds well to cultivation techniques.
Exposure.
As already mentioned, it is a plant rather resistant to both heat and cold.
However, in order not to damage its splendid foliage, it is good to protect it from the most intense summer sun rays, while it should not be taken away from a total exposure to the sun in autumn, as this will intensify the coloring of the foliage.
In winter, despite it tolerates low temperatures well, it is better to shelter the root system from frosts, especially when it is cultivated in very low pots or in a style with exposed roots.
Watering.
The common rule of watering, which indicates to water every time the soil is dry to the touch, is also ideal in the case of the Maple, considering, however, that in the hottest periods and in the presence of strong wind, it is necessary to intervene more frequently.
Often, in fact, in these cases the soil risks to remain completely dry. It is also good to keep in mind that both the lack and the excess of water can create serious imbalances to the plant.
More precisely, the lack of water causes the leaves to droop and a stunted growth; the excess causes a blackening of the leaves in the apical part.
Re-potting.
Every two years for the young maples, every 3/4 years for the adult ones. It is done in the spring when the buds begin to swell, but before the leaves appear.
The ideal compound is 60% akadama + 30% ready soil + 10% pozzolana
Pruning.
The best period to carry out a selective pruning of the branches of the Maple tree is the period in which there is the fall of the leaves in autumn (about 15/20 days), because it is possible to observe more clearly the complete structure, moreover there is no risk of sap loss since the plant is at rest.
They can also be pruned at the vegetative resumption but with less success.
Absolutely not pruned in winter because the sap in maples flows even when there are no leaves. Especially large branches should not be pruned during the growth period. Even the application of healing paste would not be able to stop the flow of sap.
As far as pruning is concerned, it is good to keep in mind that the buds of Maple trees appear in pairs, one on each side of the branch. By selecting the buds and properly pruning the branches, the new sprouting will respect the direction of the chosen bud.
Following a good pattern, based on the direction of the main branch, the secondary and tertiary branches should not cross, but form a dense, complete horizontal network.
Once the foliage is formed, which is achieved in about 5 years, every 4-5 years it is necessary to prune the tree vigorously to
Picking.
It is operated on the specimens already formed, in spring, to avoid the extension of new shoots. The topping must be continued during the whole period of growth.
On the specimens in formation is adopted the technique of defoliation, approximately every 2 years in May / June, removing all or part of the leaves, but keeping the stem, in order to increase the finer branching.
Winding.
It should be noted that due to the delicate bark of the Maple tree, shaping is achieved mainly through pruning, so the winding should be applied only in cases of absolute necessity, in the period of least activity, to avoid affecting the elegant bark.
The wire, due to the rapid growth rate of this species, should never remain for more than two three months.
Fertilization.
From April to early July, feed Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer along with Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer every 15 days, or once a month Bonsan Organic Solid Fertilizer Hanagokoro plus Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer. From late August through October, fertilize every 15 days with Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer or Bonsan Hanagokoro Organic Solid Fertilizer. Apply Bonsan Organic Solid Fertilizer Hanagokoro twice a year (in autumn and at the end of winter); 3-4 times a year Bonsan Mineral Curative Solution should also be used.
To stimulate rooting, use Bonsan Fluid Organic Mineral Fertilizer with B vitamins instead of Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer.
Cure.
The pathogens most often encountered on this species are aphids, red spider mite and powdery mildew. Attacks generally occur between spring and early fall. In case of aphids it is necessary to apply a specific aphicide every 10 days, making at least 3 interventions.
To prevent the formation of the red spider mite, it is good to keep the plant in a ventilated environment: in case of attack intervene with acaricide.
It is a bonsai that is particularly suggestive in autumn, when the characteristic trident leaves from green colors change to orange tints.
It is very popular to grow as Bonsai due to its beautiful small leaves, fine branching, beautiful bark and great vigor.
ReplyDeleteYou are right but there is a detail not to neglect. Bonsai shohin and chuhin are usually very expensive when they are well modeled and in a state that we could consider as refined or maintenance. However, little worked plants or prebonsai are a good starting material available at a reasonable price and can be turned into a good Bonsai after a few years.
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