The main objective of trimming and pruning is to shape the bonsai into the desired form and to reduce growth above ground in order to maintain a balance with root growth. The process of shaping begins when the tree is very young and is on-going as it continues its growth. Trimming is accomplished by using a sharp scissors or shears. This traditional tool is called butterfly shears or bonsai shears and is used for removing foliage and light branches. When heavier branches are removed, we call it pruning and the tool to use is the concave cutter, for which there is no substitute. The concave cutter allows you to remove small, medium and even large branches without leaving any visible scars. Some trees such as the Juniper should be trimmed by using the thumb and index finger to remove new growth and to prevent browning
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Bonsai from forest trees must live outdoors except for short periods of time when they may be brought inside for viewing.
and a “sheared” appearance.
Pests & Diseases
Many, if not most, insects are not harmful to your bonsai. Some are beneficial in that they prey on insects that will do damage to your trees. If you find that harmful insects have taken up residence on your bonsai, you need to take action. Many of these can be washed or picked off. Many are small and difficult to see. Red spider mites are frequently a problem with junipers, and can be discerned by holding a white piece of paper below a branch and tapping on the branch. If you see what looks like moving red paprika, you have a spider mite problem. Treat with an appropriate insecticide. Be sure to read all labels and application instructions for any pesticide. To do otherwise is a violation of federal law. As living trees, bonsai are susceptible to insect attacks and disease. Preventive and corrective measures include: • Keeping your
bonsai in good health, since insects and bacteria tend to attack weak trees
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Giving your tree ample light, fresh air and ventilation
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Keeping the soil free of spent blooms and fallen leavesetc. You may also use an insecticidal soap spray which is not harmful to humans or animals. This soap derivative, however, may require more than one application to control the insect population. It’s also a good idea to use this spray weekly to prevent any attacks.
Just remember that bonsai from forest trees must live outdoors except for short periods of time when they may be brought inside for viewing. These indoor periods should only be for two or three hours and should not occur at all in summer unless the interior is well ventilated. In the summer, bonsai need
Tropical and subtropical trees can be grown as indoor bonsai. A few hobbyists grow these indoors all year long with supplemental lighting.
cool nights, sunny days, and mist or rain almost daily. If your climate does not offer these conditions naturally, you must supply them. Avoid any extremes in temperature, light, rain, and wind. Water the entire plant daily, but do not let them become water logged. Placing bonsai on a slatted stand in the garden is a good way to keep drainage conditions optimum.
Learn the conditions (culture) that your bonsai requires. Junipers and pines need full sun all day. Maples, elms and boxwoods need morning sun and afternoon shade, etc. Apply fertilizer only before and during active growth. A houseplant fertilizer diluted from one quarter to one half strength will suffice. In the fall, bonsai must be prepared for the winter. Slow the growth of the plants by watering less frequently and discontinuing fertilizer application. Do not prune or cut any branches after mid-August.
Winter’s low temperatures and drying winds can easily kill bonsai. If the winter temperature drops below 28º F, bonsai must be protected by a greenhouse, pit, or coldframe. However, do not overprotect the plants; they must be kept cool to stay dormant. Don’t forget to water them while inside the coldframe. Winter watering may be necessary only once a week. More bonsai are killed by over-watering than by desiccation.
A dormant period is necessary for all temperate trees, and trees that are not given this period of rest will die. This does not apply to tropical or sub-tropical varieties, which are described on the next page. The type of winter protection needed by your trees depends on the type of tree that you have and the severity of winter in your area. If you live in an area where the coldest night temperatures in the winter are no
colder than about mid twenties Fahrenheit – typically the deep south - your trees will not need any special protection, and can remain on their benches all winter. But for most regions of the United States your trees will require winter protection of some sort. This can be accomplished by placing your tree in an unheated garage; an unheated shed; a cold frame; a window well on the north facing side of your house; a root cellar; by healing them into a flower bed; by carefully burying them in light snow. Wherever you store your bonsai, they should not be subjected to repeated cycles of freeze-thaw. A sun porch that gets warm during the day and freezing at night would not be a favorable location.
Also check periodically during the winter months to see if the tree needs to be watered. Other bonsai growers in your area are a good source of information regarding winter care.
In the spring, start new bonsai, prune the old ones, and continue training measures. The remaining part of the growing season is used for the plants’ adjustments to these practices.
The rule-of-thumb is, if the soil is still wet – don’t water.
Indoor Bonsai
Tropical and sub-tropical trees can be grown as indoor bonsai. A few hobbyists grow these indoors all year long with supplemental lighting. But even these trees will do best if they are grown outdoors during the normal growing season. When night temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit, these trees need to be brought indoors. Tropical environments receive about 12 hours of daylight all year long. Indoors, give your bonsai as much light as possible, perhaps supplemented with grow lights set on a timer to mimic natural conditions.
Most of our homes have a low relative humidity during the winter. Misting the foliage, or grouping your plants together, or placing pans of gravel and water under, or near, your bonsai will help raise the humidity. Remember, however, your bonsai pot must never be sitting in water deeper than the feet on the pot.
The water level must never be above the bottom of the pot.
The most popular bonsai styles today are the simple but relaxed forms.
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