The bonsai interest of Camellia is mainly linked to its spectacular flowering.

 It is evident that the bonsai interest in this species is mainly linked to its spectacular flowering.

 However we must also consider the other very important characteristics that Camellia has and that can be appreciated in a bonsai: the small leaf, the thick foliage and the short internodes. 

The reduced form, moreover, allows a better appreciation of the character and peculiarities of each species, compared to those in nature. Among the most loved varieties there is certainly Camellia sasanqua which is also the smallest and most compact one. 

The camellia bonsai stands out for its beautiful and fascinating flowering.

The styles to which it is best suited are: formal upright, sloping, cascade, two trunks and common stump, in medium and large sizes.

Exposure.

The Camellia does not tolerate harsh weather, so in winter it is necessary to protect it from the cold, placing it in a sheltered place, while ensuring a cool and bright position with temperatures between 2 ° and 12 ° C. 

From March to September it is placed outside in a well aerated place, but sheltered from direct sun, especially between June and August.

Watering.

Since it is a species with persistent leaves, it is indispensable to water it frequently also during the winter period, avoiding however excesses of humidity that cause the yellowing and the fall of the leaves. 

In the moment in which buds are about to form, watering must be moderate. In summertime it is watered abundantly, keeping an average humidity.

Soil.

The ideal compost is composed of: kanuma 70%, ready soil 20% and sand 10%.

Potting.

Since it is a plant with a good growth vigor, it is advisable to apply transplanting with a certain frequency, at least every 2-3 years. 

The ideal period is from mid-April to the beginning of June, when the base of the new shoots is mature and well established, that is when the shoot is still green for about half, but the base has already assumed the typical color of wood. 

At this time the white roots are developing vigorously, therefore it can be transplanted without any problem. When repotting, young shoots should be shortened to 1-2 nodes, as long as new buds are present at the base.

Pruning.

The formation of Camellia, which vegetates with vigor, is obtained mainly through pruning. It is important to prune the superfluous branches, which grow in inappropriate positions, from after flowering until the end of June. 

The procedure consists in removing, at the end of flowering, withered flowers including calyces, shortening branches to 1-2 nodes. 

It is good to keep in mind that, being a species which flowers easily, in order to improve its aesthetical aspect, it is advisable to thin out the flower buds, in order to give it a more uniform distribution. In order to recognize flower buds, it should be considered that they are slightly bigger and rounded than leaf buds.

Picking.

Pinning is an effective training technique, but in the case of young plants it is better to let the buds lengthen for a certain period, in order to obtain their enlargement, before applying it. 

On mature specimens, on the other hand, stapling, which is practiced from April to mid-July, is an indispensable system for the formation of the structure of the branches. 

The best way to act is to let the green shoots grow up to 5-10 cm in length, then shortening them to 1-2 leaves using fingers or tweezers. If you intervene when the end is still thick and compact, you will get branches with short internodes. Flower buds will later form on the nodes left behind.

Winding.

It is applied mainly on long branches, which should be wrapped and bent downwards. 

Keep in mind that the bark of Camellia is very soft and even using copper-plated aluminum wire, instead of copper, you can risk to mark it, therefore it is good to always cover the wire, for example, with adhesive paper. 

Because of its rapid growth, it is not possible to leave the wire on the tree for too long: it is advisable to check the winding often, removing the wire as soon as it starts to cut the bark.

Fertilization.

At the end of flowering, after pruning, feed Bonsan Stimulating Fertilizer combined with Bonsan Liquid Organic Fertilizer 3 times every 8-10 days. At other times, use Bonsan Organic Solid Fertilizer every 15-25 days, excluding July and August. 

Twice a year (in autumn and at the end of winter) use Bonsan Organic Solid Fertilizer Hanagokoro; 6-8 times a year it is also advisable to use Bonsan Mineral Curative Solution. To stimulate rooting, use Bonsan Fluid Organic Mineral Fertilizer with B vitamins instead of Bonsan Organic Liquid Fertilizer.

Cure.

It is not a species particularly subject to diseases, the only real threat is represented by cochineal. In presence of this pathology it is good to intervene with common antiparasitic products.

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